I’ve been following Chef Sean Brock’s career for about a decade now. The Pound, Virginia, native first hit my radar because of his roles at Charleston restaurants Husk and McCrady’s and for his devotion to and preservation of Southern foodways and Appalachian cuisine. Brock has since moved his base of operations to Nashville where his restaurants, Audrey and June, and his “hi-fidelity vinyl bar and lounge,” Bar Continental, are drawing enthusiastic responses. Two of my favorite recent cookbooks are Brock’s Heritage (2014) and South (2019) in which he writes succulently and memorably about food and ingredients.

Sharing a laugh with Sean Brock in Florence

I have only had the opportunity to eat a complete Sean Brock dinner on one occasion. He helmed a Friends of the Café dinner in Florence, Alabama, at the Alabama Chanin design factory. From the tomato and okra stew with a grilled pig tail garnish to a shrimp and eggplant purloo, grilled steak with black truffle and sweet potato, and the panna cotta dessert, it was one of the finest of many fine meals I’ve had at that cherished spot.

I have been hoping he would get around to opening a restaurant in Birmingham, “the dinner table of the South” and home to a disproportionate share of James Beard Award winners, finalists, and nominees. My hope has finally come to fruition – although perhaps not quite in the way I expected.

Sean Brock has partnered with Nick Pihakis and the Pihakis Restaurant Group to open a location of Brock’s Joyland family restaurant in Birmingham’s Avondale neighborhood. The Pihakis restaurant portfolio is extensive and its various brands are ubiquitous in the Birmingham area and beyond. I must admit that I seem to be on a first-name basis with the staff at Rodney Scott’s BBQ’s Homewood location. Pihakis began with his father at Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q in Lakewood. From there, the Pihakis group has expanded to restaurants featuring Gulf seafood, Greek, Italian, Mexican, breakfast, donuts, Rodney Scott’s, and now, Joyland – essentially an elevated breakfast and burger joint.

Joyland’s signature Crustburger features a thin hamburger patty, cheese, and onion between a flattened potato bun, skillet-toasted to a crusty crunch and served with a side of joysauce. A more traditional hamburger, fried chicken, Chicago dogs, an impossible burger, and chicken on a stick are also available. Sides include fries and hashbrowns. A breakfast and biscuit menu has a nice selection of options and sides, including a shake menu. An apple hand pie was a joyful completion to the meal. A bar is available as are “boozy shakes.” Everything I tried was good.

But the real reason I want to talk about Joyland is how committed the place seems to be to its name. From the sunburst mural on the side of the building to the sparkling primary colors throughout the retro interior and spacious courtyard, there is a bright vibe to the place. A disco ball, probably left over from the Rodney Scott’s BBQ that was previously in that location (all of Rodney Scott’s restaurants have a disco ball), dots the entrance area with dancing light and the music kept me moving in my seat. The television screens show cartoons and several children were going between the courtyard and the dining room. The urge to stand up and dance when Talking Heads’ “And She Was” came on was strong.  The staff is friendly and even seemed happy to be there.

And the food is tasty and cleverly straightforward.

Joy. What a concept.