How to Sidewalk – 2023

Birmingham’s Sidewalk Film Festival is a festival which packs a lot of action, films, workshops, panels, and parties into a single weekend – the last full weekend in August before college football begins (this is Alabama, after all). The 2023 edition, which ended on August 27, was the 25th Annual Sidewalk. I have been going for most of those years and realized that my Sidewalk tee shirt from 2003 was older than many of the people around me on Opening Night.

In the years before I moved back to Birmingham, I would get a hotel room downtown on Sidewalk weekend, park the car, and walk everywhere. Last year, I tried commuting from my house south of town to downtown for the weekend’s events. In the process, I found that I was missing things I wanted to see.

John Hand Building, Birmingham

This year, I went back to the tried-and-true hotel plan and booked a room at the Elyton Hotel at the “Heaviest Corner on Earth” – the intersection of 20th Street and 1st Avenue N. The “Heaviest Corner” designation is a relic from the early days of skyscrapers and Birmingham’s “Magic City” boom years, when skyscrapers ranging from ten to twenty-one stories were built between 1902 and 1912 on each corner of the intersection. The Elyton is in the sixteen-story Empire Building, catty-corner from the twenty-one story John Hand Building – still one of the most impressive tall buildings downtown.

Before the pandemic and other complications arose in my world, I averaged seeing two or three movies a week in movie theatres. They aren’t made for small screens and I don’t like to watch them on small screens. Now, though, I depend on the annual Sidewalk Fest to splurge. Over the years I have learned “how to Sidewalk” and, to use a much-overused word, I “curated” a list of my weekend movie destinations. In addition to four nights of “Spotlight” films (“Alabama,” “Life & Liberty,” “Shout LGBTQ+,” and “Black Lens”), the festival screens over 300 titles (shorts and features) over three days on nine screens within walking distance in downtown. It’s important to plan, knowing there’s no way to see everything you might want to see. In the early years, I tried to catch as many titles as possible. My record, on a weekend when I saw a lot of shorts screenings, was thirty-two titles under my belt; nowadays, I know what I would be most interested in and draw up a more reasonable and relaxed schedule. I have seven screenings on the list this year.

OPENING NIGHT

After checking in, unpacking, and settling into my room on Friday, I headed up to the rooftop bar, Moonshine, to check out the views. To the south, there are views of the railroad tracks that run through the center of the city, Railroad Park, the sprawling UAB campus and Children’s of Alabama hospital, the Five Points South and Highland Park neighborhoods crawling up Red Mountain, and the ubiquitous Alexander Shunnarah law firm billboard perched atop the old Bank for Savings Building.

To the north, the central city skyline dominates. What stands out for me in that view, though, is how much green is visible in all directions. The Birmingham Green project was started when I was an elementary school student. Now, the tree-lined streetscape of 20th Street provides a shaded promenade to Linn Park and the museums, stadium, and sports and entertainment spaces beyond the City Walk.

After spending time on the roof, it was time to grab dinner and catch a movie.

Art for Everybody, directed by Miranda Yousef; Alabama Theatre

I debated whether to catch the Opening Night film. In the early years of Sidewalk, more challenging films were offered on Opening Night. That seemed to end and go in the other direction after a John Sayles film was the opener and audiences were not pleased. The nadir was an opening night movie about a famous cat on social media. Since then, opening night selections have been more middle-of-the-road, trying to appeal to a wide audience. We all gather for Opening Night and split into our various tribes of film tastes on Saturday and Sunday.

Art for Everybody explores the surprisingly complex rise and spectacular fall of Thomas Kinkade, the “Painter of Light,” whose work was retailed in shopping malls throughout the country. In exploring Kinkade and his following, the film also touches on the national divide in the country. After Kinkade’s death from an overdose of alcohol and drugs, his daughters discover a vault of personal artworks that are completely different from the works he’s known for and cause some art critics to have second thoughts about Kinkade as an artist.

Art for Everybody is a surprise, but the most valuable part of the screening for me was the Q&A afterwards. Listening to director Miranda Yousef during the Q&A, I started to recall the days when I took great pleasure in being a striving creative artist. Yousef’s career in film, primarily as a film editor, has finally led to her directing a surprising and moving work of documentary art about art.

Leaving the Alabama, I was in the middle of the popular Sidewalk Opening Night Party in the street on 3rd Avenue N. Looked like fun, but I headed the two blocks to my hotel and bed.

SATURDAY

Passages, directed by Ira Sachs; ASFA Dorothy Jemison Day Theatre

I was excited to see the latest film by Ira Sachs so soon after reading competing reviews by Richard Brody and Anthony Lane, two film critics for The New Yorker whom I like very much and often agree with. Their reviews of Passages, however, run counter to each other and I was anxious to see with whom I agreed.

Passages presents a disturbing love triangle when Tomas (Franz Rogowski), who is married to Martin (Ben Whishaw), strikes up an obsessive affair with Agathe (Adele Exarchopoulos). The manic Tomas, a demanding film director, is one of the least appealing, most annoying, protagonists I can think of. He is full of cringe-worthy moments and pronouncements, and I wondered why anyone would be willing to put up with him. I didn’t like putting up with him for ninety minutes and was happy it was screened in the morning so I could forget it quickly.

Lane writes, “It’s the unhappiest film I’ve watched in a long while, steeped in Freudian pessimism …” Brody exults “the realm of emotional and sexual freedom that ‘Passages’ explores … is the crucible of imagination, the hallmark of progressive politics, and the essence of art.”

Alrighty then. I am Team Lane on this one.

Free Time, directed by Ryan Martin Brown; Sidewalk Cinema

Free Time is a comedy about a Millennial, about to turn 30. Drew (Colin Burgess) abruptly quits his desk job to find freedom and happiness. His ennui at work turns into ennui on the streets and spurs a movement of Millennials who, lemming-like, follow Drew’s dead-end lead. The amusingly frustrating performance by Burgess carries the movie. It is a refreshing document of a generational moment.

Parachute, directed by Brittany Snow; Lyric Theatre

Actor Brittany Snow adds “writer/director” to her resume with her debut directing effort, Parachute, written with Becca Gleason. Parachute is a look at Gen Z angst, addiction, and dependency that is, surprisingly, not a total buzzkill. In fact, the angsty are also rather charming. Riley (Courtney Eaton), fresh out of rehab for eating, body image, and relationship disorders, meets Ethan (Thomas Mann), a really nice guy with gradually revealed “issues” of his own. From serious subject matter, Snow applies a light touch that treats a serious subject seriously but is never gloomy in the process.

Leaving Parachute, I realized that, without planning to, I chose three narrative features in a row with really frustrating protagonists. Riley makes a series of bad choices and seems to dig herself further into a hole of her own making while a group of steadfast friends try to support her. We root for Ethan to win her over and become more than her “good friend.”

Moonage Daydream (2022), directed by Brett Morgen; Sidewalk Cinema

No frustrating protagonist here. Moonage Daydream, a trippy documentary about David Bowie, was released last year and had a run at Sidewalk Cinema in 2022. Sidewalk brought it back for the film festival audience that packed the house. Sidewalk co-founder and audience favorite Alan Hunter provided some pre-screening comments, including a reminder that he appears in Bowie’s 1990 “Fashion” video, and the tidbit that he and Bowie’s wife, Iman, took an acting class together.

Bowie, always a fascinating figure, moves majestically through Moonage Daydream in all of his personae – from elegant to extreme. Vintage video, performances, interviews, and plentiful music provide a kinetic audio feast, a celebration of a singular, irreplaceable artist.

Moonage Daydream seemed to be the proper way to end a full film-viewing day. Before turning in, I decided to walk a few blocks to a place that my writer friend John T. Edge told me to visit as soon as possible. House of Found Objects is Faizel Valli’s latest venture in downtown following the closure of his very popular Atomic Bar and Lounge. The place is an art installation with a bar. On a crowded night, it was hard to take it all in. John T. Edge wrote a great description for Garden and Gun: John T. Edge Toasts a Birmingham Bar Where Patrons Are the Stars – Garden & Gun (gardenandgun.com)

SUNDAY

I have always loved the quiet of downtown Birmingham on a Sunday morning. It has become a tradition for me for seek out meditative documentaries for my Sunday Sidewalk experience. After checking out of the hotel, I drove around for a while. People were walking dogs, taking morning runs, riding bikes. Birmingham streets would have been deserted not that long ago, before the downtown area became a residential as well as business hub. I like the neighborhood feel of today.

45365 (2009), directed by Bill Ross IV & Turner Ross; Birmingham Museum of Art

The fact that I know the zip code of Sidney, Ohio, tells how big an impression the Ross Brothers’ 2009 documentary about their home town made on me. In honor of the 25th Sidewalk, programmers added screenings of some films that have been shown over the past two-and-a-half decades. 45365 certainly merits a repeat viewing.

45365 chronicles life in a small American city. There is no narration – just an all-seeing camera following the people who live there. There is an occasional visit to the control booth of a local deejay. Most of the characters are only seen for a moment or two, but we feel like we know, have known, them.

I feel comfortable declaring that 45365 is one of my favorite movies of the 21st Century so far. Check out the trailer: 45365 Trailer – YouTube

King Coal directed by Elaine McMillion Sheldon; Sidewalk Cinema

After reading reviews and watching the trailer for King Coal, the documentary by Elaine McMillion Sheldon, I knew it would be the perfect documentary to pair with 45365. Sheldon, who is from West Virginia, explores the coal industry in Appalachia, the mythology and pride that surround the culture, and the hopes for a future beyond coal. King Coal, filmed in parts of several states, deals with the complexity of an industry that has sustained its communities while it also has exploited and destroyed them. At one point, Sheldon says, “I remember learning that if I said anything bad about the King, I was betraying my loved ones.” Watching the film, and remembering a time when Birmingham was dominated and sustained by iron and steel and heavy industry, I understand the conundrum Sheldon addresses in her lyrical and poignant celebration of her home, its past, and its uncertain future. Here’s a preview:

King Coal (2023) | Official Trailer | Full HD – YouTube

There was plenty more to see, but I decided that King Coal was a fitting denouement to a good weekend of viewing. Plus, walking from venue to venue in 96-degree temperatures helped me lose five pounds (another reason to attend this festival).

Those who love movies owe it to themselves to check out future Sidewalks. Years ago, Time listed Sidewalk as one of the “Top 10 Festivals for the Rest of Us.” MovieMaker has cited it many times, including as one of “The 25 Coolest Film Festivals in the World” and “20 Great Film Festivals for First Time Moviemakers.”

No matter what’s going on in my world, I’m always happy I showed up at Sidewalk.

Happy Sidewalk!

New Review for Alabama Writers’ Forum: Flawed Good People

Former Alabama governor “Big Jim” Folsom figures prominently in this collection of five plays. For those who don’t know about Alabama’s progressive (by Alabama standards) governor at the dawn of the Civil Rights Era, this might be a worthwhile introduction.

Flawed Good People: Civil Rights Era Plays from Alabama

Fonfon

 I am met with the inevitable smirk whenever I suggest to out-of-towners that they might want to have a meal at Chez Fonfon, Frank and Pardis Stitt’s charming bistro next door to their acclaimed Highlands Bar and Grill in Birmingham’s Five Points South. I am expected to account for the name, which might seem frivolous and silly on first hearing. I used to say that perhaps in a discussion to come up with a suitable name for a French-style bistro, somebody said I dunno, let’s just call it something like Chez Froufrou, Fonfon – something like that and it stuck. That one didn’t seem to satisfy anyone so I did some research and found that there is a Chez Fonfon in Marseilles. When I tell those smirking people that I think it was named in honor of a famous French bistro, smirks disappear.

When they take my advice and eat there, any skepticism vanishes. Chez Fonfon is even more pertinent today since its neighbor, Highlands, has been closed since the pandemic. The Stitts have reopened Fonfon, Bottega, and Bottega Café, but Highlands, the restaurant that heralded Birmingham’s lauded modern culinary scene, has not yet returned. There are hopeful rumors circulating that Highlands may be back before the end of 2023.

I’m not dining out much these days. I find, though, that on those rare occasions when I can get away for a relaxing dining experience, Chez Fonfon is one of my go-to spots. When my friend, Anne, recently contacted me and asked if I might be available to have dinner at Chez Fonfon on a certain night, I replied, “Book it and I’ll make it happen.”

Not only was I able to meet Anne for dinner but, when I got there, my friend Deborah, who lives in New Mexico, was with her to surprise me. The meal with a friend had become a celebratory reunion with dear friends from Tuscaloosa days.

A few days after the Chez Fonfon dinner, I had a conversation with another friend who had just returned from her first trip to New Orleans. We talked about her New Orleans dining in classics like Commander’s Palace and Galatoire’s and even some of the newer places and agreed that, although the food is exceptional, it’s the quality of service that makes so many New Orleans restaurant experiences so truly unforgettable.

The same is true of the Stitt-owned restaurants in Birmingham where service is always impeccable, knowledgeable, and attentive without being obtrusive. I tend to always order fish at Fonfon and my Gulf grouper, with a rich sauce, field peas, and a corn and cherry tomato relish was the perfect plate for my taste. Anne and Deborah did not hesitate to order the crabcakes with seafood from the fishing village of Bayou La Batre on Alabama’s coast, garnished with butter beans, chives, and beurre blanc. A crisp Sancerre was the perfect accompaniment.

It’s impossible – or at least inadvisable – to have a Chez Fonfon meal without one of their famed desserts. Heeding the tradition of Carolinians and chef Bill Smith, formerly of Chapel Hill’s Crook’s Corner, who say that a citrus dessert is the proper dessert after seafood, I ordered a berry trifle with lemon curd. Anne and Deborah ordered coconut pecan cake and Basque cake. As always, the desserts were delightful and worthy of raves.

The meal was punctuated by memories of times past in Tuscaloosa and in Birmingham’s Southside. Five Points South is a historic part of the city dominated by Spanish Baroque architecture, hotels, and entertainment options. An extensive refurbishment was nearing completion on the centerpiece of the district, Frank Fleming’s sculpture and fountain, “The Storyteller.” As we left the restaurant on a steamy July evening, we walked across the way to pay homage to the fountain and the place, the site of many memories across the years.

I find that my own post-pandemic outings are fewer and farther between. Because of the challenges we have all faced, those times seem even more special when they happen. Being able to meet with friends again, being able to enjoy a relaxing and amazing meal, being able to breathe and laugh and remember past adventures – all those things make for an evening that will last in memory.

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On down the mountain toward the city center, about ten blocks south of the Stitt restaurants, is the Rotary Trail, a half-mile linear park built on a former railroad bed. At the eastern end of the trail, nestled beneath an overpass, is “Frank’s Table,” a sculpture by Gregory Fitzpatrick in honor of Frank Stitt. The table, in stainless steel topped by Alabama marble, incorporates iconography representative of honeybee wings. Its dedication reads, in part, “Frank’s culinary and cultural contributions to our community have provided a table at which we can all sit.”

Frank’s Table

Here’s to many more great meals at table with friends.

 

On Reading Jim Murphy’s “Versions of May”

Perhaps my favorite poem by Norman Dubie, the poet who died in the winter of this year, is “Pastoral,” a quietly startling poem about a woman nursing her baby as her father is shot to death. “…all the snow is red, the horse’s / Blood is white,” Dubie writes, before he gets to a memorably haunting final line: “Terror is / The vigil of astonishment.”

My synapses started firing while I read Jim Murphy’s new book of poetry, Versions of May (Negative Capability Press, 2023), and came across the poem “Letter to Westerberg” with the words about the “damaged and distorted / record that you left like blood on snow.” Soon after, in the poem “Terra Nova,” Murphy writes of “nothing known for sure / except the sweet terror of horizons.”

The ability of words to stoke evocative connections is a powerful thing and the fact that the words “blood,” “snow,” and “terror” sent me back to a much-admired poem from the 1970s illustrates the power of the written word, and poetry especially, to transform and stimulate. Dubie and Murphy share wide-ranging ken and conjure familiarity from the obscure.

Versions of May grabbed me from the first poem, “Grave as Blackberries” – an invocation, of sorts, calling forth joy and Miles Davis. Murphy writes poetry of subtext, in which larger truths and histories often lurk beneath the façade – poetry pentimento, in a way. Conversely, an expansive vision might give way to an intensely personal insight at the turn of a phrase.

In “Southern Holi,” a poem about the Hindu “Festival of Colors” in India, “filaments of the distant past” become “lost in the compact present.” Vestiges of that past abruptly halt the adults; the children frolic on, “not a worry in the world.” Murphy’s poems cover a world of topics with frequent shout-outs to jazz, blues, and rock musicians.  Chet Baker, The Beatles, Blind Willie Johnson, Hall and Oates, Jane’s Addiction, Jim Morrison, Lou Reed, Nina Simone, and others make cameos in these pages. In “Phone Call to Morrison,” he writes, “I’m trying to reach you on a black phone / in the hall, hung by its neck until dead.”

Murphy’s poems address joy and beauty, friends and family and bliss, but often with a keen sense of the darkness that lies beneath. These poems are set throughout the United States as well as in far-reaching locations in Mexico, India, and Vietnam. Section 2, a series of 13-line poems, considers topics that begin with a breath and continue to the death of a parent. “At last, you had become the chords,” he writes for his mother.

These are robust and vital poems – each with something to be pondered and savored. As Murphy writes “In Defense of Chet Baker”:

“You hear that? Someone / somewhere is singing.”

Book Review: Saturday and the Witch Woman

Thomas Oliver Ott’s Saturday and the Witch Woman is a historical novel about real people set against events at the start of the Haitian Revolution in 1791. It’s a page-turner, providing insights into Toussaint L’Ouverture, the human toll, and the many factors that came together to ensure the success of the insurrection. Here’s my latest review for Alabama Writers’ Forum:

Saturday and the Witch Woman: A Novel of Remembrance

“Oh, for a bee’s experience …

Of clover and of noon!” – “The Bee” by Emily Dickinson

Trying to savor the summer while having some restraints on my activities, I have been thinking a lot about the bees. I have been watching them a lot, keeping in mind alarms about declining bee populations. Specifically, I have been staying at my mother’s house full-time, so I shifted focus from attracting bees to my own small yard in Rocky Ridge to observing the activity around her garden home community on the steep west slope of Shades Mountain.

A late freeze brought the demise of a large loropetalum shrub encircling a tall crape myrtle in Mother’s front yard. When the loropetalum was removed, we decided to plant a variety of blooming and leafy plants in its stead. It turned out to be a good move – with compact bidens, calibrachia, rosemary, vinca, and Japanese painted ferns putting on a frisky, flourishing show beneath the deep crimson blooms of the crape myrtle. I keep a careful watch over the volunteers – some are welcome; others will take over if left alone.

On the porch, a yellow begonia holds court in a hanging container, with lysimachia flowing toward the ground. The large blooms of a braided mandevilla in a unique coral and golden hue are a favorite of my mom’s, but the blooms drop after one day, leaving the plant leafy without flowers on occasion. It shields an always trustworthy heuchera which was joined this year by a lacy volunteer that was just too charming to eliminate. The lacy foliage will wither away in late-fall, but the heuchera, if it acts according to habit, will still be flourishing next year.

As you come into the entry space, a ruellia – commonly called a “wild petunia” and known for an invasive nature – stands confined in a container, grounded by impatiens and lysimachia. Its delicate morning blooms fall off daily, to be replaced by new blooms the next morning. The roses in a bed next to the house have seen better days, but they are hanging in there. Bees, butterflies, and the occasional hummingbird show up and regular rainfall and diligent watering are keeping everything happy so far in the stifling July heat.

But here’s the kicker: There’s a Rose of Sharon in my parent’s backyard that grew from a sprout and is probably in excess of twelve feet now. It’s covered with fuchsia blooms and – at any given time – hundreds of bees. I know Rose of Sharon is a common name used for a number of plants – this one is a hibiscus – but I like the tradition and antiquity of the appellation and plan to use it until the plant police come knocking. Bees have always loved this specimen, but this year seems to be a banner year for its bee population from early morning to sunset. There is a constant low buzz from the tree when we wander into the yard.

Slightly to the side of the Rose of Sharon is a raised bed my dad created. I haven’t had a chance to properly tend to it this year, but it is lush and beautiful in its wildness anyway. Purple heart and yellow lantana grow in a bed with four less-than-stellar rose bushes. The in-ground Easter lilies bloomed late and those plants have taken their time fading away. Like many other plants, the odd weather seems to have confused them; one healthy looking lily has developed three new bulbs (in the middle of July!) but I do not expect them to bloom.

It hasn’t been a great few years for the roses of any kind and my grandfather’s ancient rose bushes, grown from cuttings of the mother plant, have struggled to flower. The hummingbird feeders do not seem as busy as usual, but an occasional hummer is spotted at the feeders and among the bees in the Rose of Sharon. It’s a challenge to keep the bird feeders stocked; it’s a bigger challenge to keep the squirrels away, but Lulu, the prancing chihuahua, likes nothing better than to chase the squirrels. Mourning doves are the primary customers at the feeders, but a pair of cardinals are frequent visitors since late-winter, as are an occasional bluebird and blue jay and a red-headed woodpecker. Wrens and chickadees are also in evidence, I think, but I hesitate to say much since a reader pointed out recently that I don’t seem to know the difference. I pay my annual due diligence to the Audubon Society and the Arbor Day Foundation but I’m not always good at the identification part of the test.

These are the things that inhabit my alternate garden in summer 2023.

Book Review: Unmasking the Klansman

Here’s my latest book review for Alabama Writers’ Forum.  Dan T. Carter’s Unmasking the Klansman: The Double Life of Asa and Forrest Carter is bizarre and troubling and, unfortunately, absolutely true.

Unmasking the Klansman: The Double Life of Asa and Forrest Carter

Long, Last, Barry

After a night out with friends in 1979, I returned to my apartment on Caplewood, a pleasant winding residential street at the end of the Strip, down the road from the University of Alabama. As I put the key in the lock, my neighbor Mike walked out on the porch. “Barry was here earlier,” he said.

“Yeah?”

“Yeah. I kinda had to run him off.”

“What was he doing?”

“Actually, he was trying to break into your apartment.”

“Really … did he happen to say why?”

“He said he was a writer and he needed inspiration and that you had a record album he needed to listen to tonight, right now. He was pretty adamant.”

“And …”

“I told him it looked like you weren’t home and he needed to leave, that I couldn’t let him break in.”

“How’d he take it?”

“He was annoyed and argued a little, but he left. Do you know what he was looking for?”

“I do.”

The next day, I grabbed Planet Waves from my record stack and walked a couple of doors down to Barry’s studio in the backyard of a neighbor’s house.

He was in.

“Here’s the album you were looking for last night,” I said. “Take it. Keep it. You can have it, and please don’t come knocking at my door anymore. And don’t ever try to break into my house again. Please.”

___________________________________________

Barry Hannah, the novelist that Truman Capote called “the maddest writer in the USA” and whom Alfred Kazin praised as “a writer of violent honesty and power” was my neighbor in Tuscaloosa in 1979. His studio was two doors down and his house was farther down on the curve that pointed Caplewood back toward the university.

When I heard that Hannah was coming to the University of Alabama to teach creative writing, I grabbed his first novel, Geronimo Rex, and was transfixed by the vibrant energy and muscle of the words on the page. He always wrote like nobody else with a style that was impossible to emulate – for anyone foolhardy enough to try.

I started hearing “Barry stories” from my writer friends as soon as Barry hit town, but I didn’t meet him until his hugely acclaimed volume of short stories, Airships, was released and I got a copy signed at Another Roadside Attraction, a bookstore on the Strip. He asked my name, proclaimed it a “great name,” and inscribed the book to me with a comment about my name.

I later loaned that signed copy of Airships to a friend and he never returned it. I asked him about it and he denied that he borrowed it, but I know he did. I always remember people who borrow and steal my books. (I’m talking about you, Jim.) After I started hanging out with Barry, he signed another copy of Airships, but the inscription was less personal.

After I moved into the apartment down the street from Barry’s house, we began to run into each other more often. He’d occasionally show up at my door and I was occasionally invited down to his house or studio.

One night late, a friend and I were sitting in Barry’s living room and Frampton Comes Alive! was on the turntable. When “Do You Feel Like We Do?” came on and the signature talk box guitar solo kicked in, Barry picked up his trumpet and began to blow, trying to match the talk box sound. It was a bizarre moment in time, but Barry’s effort was so earnest that we weren’t sure how to react. Once it was over, I think I offered a noncommittal wow.

_______________________________________________

But my most bizarre “Barry story” begins on another late night at Barry’s house. Barry suddenly turned to me and said, “The Paris Review wants to publish an interview with me. I’ve told them I will only do it if I can choose the interviewer. Edward, do you want to do my Paris Review interview?”

Remember, this was forty-four years ago and I was trying to keep up with Barry, so some details are fuzzy. I have no clue if Paris Review was trying to do a Barry Hannah interview in 1979, and I was skeptical that I would be considered to write it, but it was a promising adventure and I didn’t hesitate to go along.

I was even more skeptical when Barry said we would do the interview the next morning at the studio, but I called in to take the day off, gathered a cassette recorder and blank tapes, and showed up at the studio at the appointed time. I was pretty sure I wasn’t prepared to do a proper Paris Review interview.

Barry, drink in hand, was waiting for me when I got to the studio. We chatted for a while until I finally asked if we could start the interview. Barry insisted that I needed something to drink and poured a glass full of something rancid that he referred to as white wine. It had a strong chemical smell and something unsavory was floating on the bottom. I thanked him, put the glass to the side, and started the recorder.

I wasn’t really prepared for a writer interview with twelve hours’ notice, so I asked him about his childhood in Mississippi, his family, other Mississippi writers and influences, autobiographical elements in his stories, teaching creative writing. I rambled and so did he. His responses were tangential and he kept coming back to a poem he had just written, called “Certain Feelings.” “I have certain feelings about this room / I have certain feelings about doom …” and on like that. I was pretty sure we weren’t having a Paris Review-level interview. I wasn’t sure if Barry was putting me on, making a fool of me, or was just that far gone. I wasn’t sure how I should respond to the bad poetry of “Certain Feelings.”

After a very long time, Barry looked at my wine glass. “Why didn’t you drink the wine?” he asked. I told him that I thought the wine had turned, or something. He grabbed the glass and shrieked in horror and said he gave me the “wrong glass.”

The interview basically was over when he said, “Let’s go get a drink.” I agreed and Barry picked up the phone, called Lee’s Tomb, a downtown bar and music venue at a former loading dock, and ordered four cocktails to go. We climbed into Barry’s MG convertible and drove the few blocks to Lee’s Tomb, where a bartender stood on the side of the road with a tray and four cocktails. Barry tipped the bartender, told him to put it on his tab, and roared off, announcing that we were going for some barbecue.

As we crossed the river into Northport, Barry announced that he wanted to go get his kids and drove to a neighborhood. He stopped at the end of the drive where his ex-wife lived and told me his kids were inside and he wanted them to go get barbecue with us.

“She’ll get mad if I go to the door,” he said. “You’ll have to go. Tell her you’re a writer for The Paris Review, interviewing me, and that we want to take my kids for barbecue.”

As I got out of the car, he said, “Use a French accent.” After all these years, I blush to admit that I took his suggestion.

I walked up the long drive to the front door and rang the bell. It opened immediately; she was waiting for me. “Bonjour, madame,” I said in the worst attempt to have a French accent ever. “I am in town to interview Barry Hannah for The Paris Review. He would like to take his children out for barbecue and I would like to meet his children.”

She scowled at me, at the MG, and at me again. It was a practiced scowl that I’m sure she had been called upon to use frequently with Barry’s “associates.”

“Go home,” she said, and closed the door.

I took the long walk back to the MG. “She said we should go home – no kids today.”

Barry looked back at the house for a long time. Finally, he took a long breath and said, “Let’s kill her.” I’m sure he didn’t mean it.

“Let’s go get some barbecue,” I said. And we pulled away and went to Archibald’s. The meat was good, but the wind was taken out of the day and we ate and went back to the studio on Caplewood, stopping again for curb service at Lee’s Tomb on the way. Barry said we’d have to finish the “interview” some other time and that was the last time the Paris Review interview was mentioned.

________________________________________________

But Barry and I kept hanging out for a while. Occasionally he would summon me down to the studio to hear something he was writing. One night, very late, he knocked on my door, woke me up, and said he wanted me to look at something he’d just written. I dressed and went down to the studio, he made a drink, and I read a few paragraphs about Judy Moody, a charismatic young woman who had recently made a run for mayor of Tuscaloosa and lost in a close runoff. Barry describes her as “a true person waiting to talk to you and comfort you.”

On another night, he saw my lights on and dropped by. I was listening to Planet Waves, the first album collaboration between Bob Dylan and The Band. The Last Waltz documentary was recently released and I was going though a major The Band phase.  Barry wanted to listen to Planet Waves over and over. I have no idea which song was so important to him but the next night he was breaking into my house for the album.

That led to the incident that opened this essay.

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I mostly avoided Barry after that. Occasionally, we’d see each other out and about and nod in passing. Sometimes, I’d hear the trumpet being played on the balcony down the street, its often shrill notes breaking the peace of Caplewood. One weekend, a group from a party I was hosting decided it would be fun to roll Barry’s yard. I didn’t find out until after the fact and worried that there might be a confrontation. The next day, I walked down to see Barry’s yard and trees covered in toilet paper; the following day, it was gone. Nothing ever came of it.

Barry was never very happy in Tuscaloosa and his legendary drinking contributed to a preponderance of local “Barry stories.” I heard the famous story about him pointing a gun at a student in a fiction writing workshop and every version was a little different. I even heard the story from the grad student that the gun was allegedly pointed at; according to him, the story was true. Barry’s version was much more sanitized – something about using the gun to illustrate the various parts of a short story. No matter whose version you heard, though, Barry brought a gun to a creative writing class.

I moved away from Caplewood later in ’79 and saw Barry out and about less and less. I bought Ray as soon as it came out in 1980. In Ray, Barry writes about sex and violence and frequently uses the n-word with what we used to call “reckless abandon.”

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There was a terrible movie called Walking Tall that came out in the early ‘70s. The head of a local movie chain gave his personal endorsement of that movie in radio ads. “Walking Tall is rated R for violence, not sex,” he said. “So bring the whole family.”

You can’t make that up. It was the ‘70s.

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When I read Ray, I realized that the rambling stream of consciousness is partially a surreal recap of Barry’s experiences during the writing of that short novel. I realized that some of his rambles during the “interview” were a test run for passages that wound up in the book. That passage about Judy Moody is there – section XVIII, as is the “Certain Feelings” poem that he recited to me off and on throughout the interview day (XIV). In the novel, a student recites “Certain Feelings” to Ray and Ray slugs him. I finally knew how I was supposed to respond to that poem.

I haven’t told my “Barry story” very often. Partially, I was embarrassed by the out-of-control aspect of the whole series of episodes, especially the French accent episode at his ex-wife’s house. His name would come up in conversation now and then and I would sometimes mention that I had known him briefly in Tuscaloosa. During a conversation with members of an Atlanta-based New Wave band, Swimming Pool Qs, a band member cited Barry Hannah as an influence in their music and I mentioned that I had hung out with him at one time. My cred immediately rose with the band.

I ran across those Paris Review interview cassettes as I was packing for a move sometime in the ‘90s, listened to a few minutes, was mortified, and tossed them. If they had been found, they would have been an embarrassment to Barry and me. Sorry. I couldn’t let them exist.

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After Barry left Tuscaloosa, he worked with filmmaker Robert Altman for a while, and then he went to Oxford, Mississippi, to teach at Ole Miss. I heard stories about his drinking in the first years there and then I heard he got sober. I would run into people who had been in Oxford and knew Barry and it was the tale of two Barrys. Some stories were from the heavy drinking phase and others were from the sober phase. Overall, Oxford seems to have been the right place for him to land. I’m sure he had plenty of barbecue with his kids there.

I thought about trying to get back in touch, but never did. Eventually, Barry had a series of health problems and reported seeing Jesus in his hospital room.

The Paris Review ran Lacey Galbraith’s interview with Barry Hannah in Winter 2004, twenty-five years after our trial run. I re-read it not long ago and it’s a great interview. Look it up in the archives – “ Barry Hannah, The Art of Fiction no. 184.”

Long, Last, Happy was a posthumous collection of short stories published not long after Barry died in 2010. He’s buried in the same Oxford cemetery as Faulkner and some of his friends slapped one of those I’D RATHER BE READING AIRSHIPS stickers on Faulkner’s grave shortly afterward. I bought a copy of Long, Last, Happy at Faulkner House Books on a trip to New Orleans with my brother in 2011. Late that night, back at the hotel, I started randomly reading the stories – many of which I already knew from Airships and other collections – while my brother tried to sleep on the other side of the room. I giggled heartily way into the early morning.

When the proprietor of the bookstore had seen what I was buying, she said, “A good Southern boy.” Did she mean me for reading it? Or Barry for writing it? I think she meant both.